Where to Stay - The Fairmont Chateau Montebello

The road that snakes with the bends of the Ottawa River, running from the nation’s capital to Montreal, Quebec, traces a border that is older than Canada itself, and runs between landforms whose age cannot even be measured. Wedged between the Laurentian mountain range and the serpentine river that served as border French and English factions for centuries, this is the Canada that men such as Samuel de Champlain bore witness to roughly 500 years ago. Pine forests rife with wildlife, glacial lakes teeming with fish, and miles of trails on which the beaten paths of hikers have been trod, the Montebello region offers picture-perfect splendour for the traveling nature enthusiast. Back in 1855, Jean-Louis Papineau titled his lands here ‘Montebello,’ and twenty years later, the municipality of the same name was founded. 

In the years following the Great War, as the immigrant population in Canada grew and the attraction of old-world leisure became more enticing, the development of luxury backwoods chalets rose in popularity. Montebello was the brainchild of Swiss-American Harold Saddlemire, who sought to erect a grand cedar chateau inspired by its contemporaries in the Alps of his native land. Like similar Canadian chateaus built in Banff and Jasper a generation earlier, the task was a monumental challenge, and the media lauded the ambition of the project. Skilled craftsmen built Montebello ’s three main buildings from 10,000 cedar logs, each cut and set by hand, in just over four months, and when the lodge opened in 1930, it met with immediate acclaim. Guests marveled at both the location and the stunning expanse of the lobby where visitors were greeted. A three-story central atrium forms the centerpiece of the lodge, and each floor is appended with wings that lead out to the lodge’s 211 guest rooms, but for the first years, this architectural marvel was the exclusive domain of Seignoiry Club members, an elite group of politicians and foreign dignitaries that have counted prime ministers Pierre Trudeau and Lester B. Pearson among their membership. In 1981, Montebello held the international economic summit, attended by Margaret Thatcher and U.S. President Ronald Reagan, and the secret of Montebello came out. Today, the distinctiveness of the lodge is accessible to the public, and alongside the golf course designed in 1929 by Stanley Thompson, Montebello is one of the most charming four-season resorts in Eastern Canada.

First impressions at Montebello are striking. The drive in is undramatic, as it should be, merging with the landscape rather than overrunning it. Once inside the lodge, though, the setting is mesmerizing. With towering three-story ceilings, colossal beams, and a six-sided stone fireplace providing the dramatic centerpiece, this oversized rotunda room makes for the ideal gathering place. Down the wings, away from the central hub, are the luxuriously appointed rooms, cozy charming, and offering fine views of the property. Around the fireplace, comfy sitting areas scattered about the landings offer the perfect atmosphere for an after-dinner drink, a game of cards, chess, or backgammon, or the comfort of a good book. In the winters, the fireplace is always aglow, but in the summer, the doors of the lodge open to a far more exciting array of leisure activities. The resort maintains a pool, and in addition to the golf and hiking options, there are tennis and squash courts on the premises, or take a tour of the Manor House, a museum that details the history of Montebello and the Outaouais region. Trout, bass, and pike fishing excursions can be arranged as well. Observe bears in the wild, traveling through thousands of acres of old Quebec forest in a Land Rover, or biking casually through the wooded hillside, the Montebello area is eye candy for the outdoor enthusiast.

It’s quite the experience to feast on the land throughout the day, but come back to Montebello to feast on the creations of Executive Chef Patrick Bourachot in the evening. The dining experience here is authentic, mixing local ingredients and aromas with an international flair. Aux Chantignoles is the central dining room, with breakfast and lunch buffets highlighted by unique local fare. Snails in a rich Saint Benoit Sauce, roast prime rib, and rack of caribou with juniper berries are among the favourites of discerning guests, and mornings in Quebec are best started with a café au lait and a stack of pancakes or crepes drizzled in real maple syrup. Beyond the main dining room, much of the culinary character at Montebello reflects the spirit of the land. The nightly summer barbeque on the outdoor terrace offers up steaks and chops grilled to perfection, and cocktails and desserts unique to the Montebello spirit are available at all hours. 

With international airports in Ottawa and Montreal located just over an hour or so away, Montebello is actually much more accessible than one might instinctively think. With its illustrious history, the impeccable craftsmanship, and the elegant surroundings, Montebello is a resort hamlet that must be experienced at least once in one’s lifetime.